Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of

.30-06

, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of

Roadrunner

.

Follow the initial crack of

.30-06

to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and

long

crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.

Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of

Roadrunner

finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.

Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.

Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than

Great Escape

,

Brennivin

,

Mighty Dog

, and

Rocketman

. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.

Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.

Wiled Horses

EDIT: this is actually is named .30-06, and the right crack is

Roadrunner

.

This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).

Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.

EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.

Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.

There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than

Brennivin

and

Naked Kill

. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).

.30-06

EDIT: Double Stout is now logically split into two separate routes, the first pitch to the no hands rest under the roof, and the entire line extended over the roof.

Technical and insecure steep slab and face climbing. Start with the first few clips over a small roof of

Black and Tan

, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of

Casual Gods

below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.

Double Stout

Start at the giant eyebolt and head up to sweet, fairly sustained crimpy climbing. Some teeny holds, but you earn a nice rest in the middle of the hard stuff. A really fantasic 11a, but if you want to work even harder, the second pitch ("

Porn Queen

") is rated 11c/d.

Reefer Madness

I felt that this route was about 5.10 with a V5 boulder problem to more 5.10 climbing.

Sweet Thing

This all-but-forgotten line has wallowed in obscurity for over a decade, guarded by a low, deceptive band of chossy stone that adeptly deters potential suitors.  Those who brave the handful of dirty holds at the start will be rewarded with solid, largely excellent stone and fantastic movement. The roof is typical of horizontal climbing in Clear Creek, sandy in spots but solid where necessary, leading to a brilliant, multi-hued headwall of burnt orange gneiss, white calcite, and lime-green lichen. Despite appearances, this is not your typical one-move wonder roof-pull. The climbing is surprisingly sustained from the moment you step off the

Vixen

slab until you clip the anchor, some 30 moves later.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the

Vixen

anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a slanted fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Follow the sloping ramp leftward, passing a pair of right-facing overlaps on brilliant stone, finally reaching a well-deserved jug a few feet below the anchor.

Harlot

Warning: LINK UP....

Climb the crux first five bolts of

Mission Impossible

to the obvious break in the wall. Traverse slightly right to join

Interstellar Overdrive

at its rest. Continue through the crux of

IO

to the chains. Boom.

This is a link up, no doubt, however, a worthy one - combining great climbing (potentially the best terrain) from two great routes, and taking the most natural, straight up method on the wall.

Mission Overdrive

This route takes a 'direct' approach to reach the

Wiled Horses

roof, cranks this gymnastic obstacle, and then snakes up the brilliant hanging headwall to the top of the cliff in 35 meters.  The position is spectacular, and the stone on the upper panel is some of the best in Clear Creek - bright orange, crisp patina highlighted with marble swirls.  However, the final two meters of the redpoint crux veer to within a few feet of the

.30-06

crack.  Those who choose to ignore the crack will enjoy an athletic and engaging

Taipan Wall

style romp up a vertical water groove.  Those who opt left for handjams can claim an ascent of

Wile E. Coyote

(5.13d/14a?).

Stick clip the first bolt, and then follow easy jugs up the start of

Roadrunner

.  Move left onto the slab proper at the second bolt, and then make fun moderate moves to reach the dusty cave.  Pierce the intimidating roof with shouldery moves and swinging feet, followed by a cool mantel. The most difficult sequence follows - a thin boulder problem of edges, divots, and highsteps to reach a sloping shelf.  Move left along the shelf, through an awkward pod, and then slope and slap up the pumpy, vertical rail to the suspended 'bread loaf'.  Race the building pump, making exotic moves up the gymanstic groove, culminating in a precision stab to a diagonal slot (or grope left into

.30-06

).  A few more pumpy moves lead to a well-earned shake at a horizontal break, followed by a final series of big cranks between sloping jugs to reach the top of the towering cliff.

American Mustang

This long route pulls over multiple roofs on solid Clear Creek rock between

Little Kitten

(to the left) and the sweet arete climb

Wet Dream

(to the right).  There can be bits of loose rock on the ledges after the roofs, be careful not to bombard your belayer.  I found the first overlap to be slightly difficult to clip, although the final crux roof up high, was very well protected and more fun than words.  Excellent from bottom to top, my favorite route on Wall of '90s for the moves, exposure, and length.

Curvaceous

This route follows a groove/crack system just left of

Curvaceous

and right of

Foxy

. Start with good holds and move up through a couple of overlaps to a crux in a corner just below the anchor. The book gives this a PG rating but it seemed well protected to me, meow....

Little Kitten

Follow the line of bolts right of

Vixen

, and make your way up the long slab climb to the huge roof complex above.  The slab is relatively mild, and gives good rests.  The meat of this route involves a series of large roof sections that lead to a four move crux sequence.  Pull this off, avoid the terrible rope drag, and you are on your way to the redpoint.

This is a fun arete route that switches sides back and forth a few times. Over the years I continue to come back to this one as the varied climbing, length, and quality are amoung the best of the grade in the canyon. Start out with some fun overhanging 11c moves on jugs. Then move to some good, vertical, face climbing followed by interesting slab moves. The crux is near the top and is pulling a little roof/bulge on pretty thin holds - a challenging sequence to find but a great one to figure out. This is another Clear Creek classic.

Wet Dream

Start from a ledge with the top anchor for

Little Kitten

. It has poor quality rock.

Slender Babe

The left half of the Wall of the '90s is capped by a complex of large, tiered roofs.

Harlot

braves the left side of this roof complex but skirts the final roof by following the obvious left-angling weakness. Hellcat is the proper directissima, tackling the final obstacle with a wild, pumpy, and exposed sequence that culminates in a huge throw to a jug at the lip. The largely stellar rock, sustained difficulty, and remarkable position make this mega line one of the best hard climbs in the canyon.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the

Vixen

anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a sloping fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Technical, sequential liebacking leads to a strenuous rest stance below the final slanted ceiling. A big reach to a finger bucket in brilliant iron-hued stone sets up a make-or-break huck to the lip, followed by an easy mantel onto the hanging slab.

Hellcat

Climb either

Stone Free

or

Reefer Madness

and head up and right of

Reefer's

anchor (the line

Porn Queen

extends directly- or slightly left above these anchors).  See these routes for descriptions of the 1st 6-7 bolts.  Pass some bird dung on this interesting line, and a sizeable runout above an initial bulge that is intimidating on the lead.

Balancy moves and a good head will bring one through the crux mid way between the lower and upper anchors via sloping holds.  Doesn't receive much traffic.  Has solid rock for hands and feet, although keep the feet firmly pasted on the slightly lichenous rock.  A star and a half would be my rating for quality of moves. If cleaner it would be a popular climb.

Casual Stone

Hey Good Lookin' may be the best route of its grade in Clear Creek Canyon. The line fires through the left hand side of the roof system on the  Wall of the 90s, straight through the obvious hand-jam crack that joins the roof in pale yellow stone. The climbing on Hey Good Lookin' starts on the sprawling ledge system below the main roof. Half a dozen clips and some good slabbin' takes you right up under the roof.  Pull around on some 5.11 moves to get established on the left edge of the roof. Haul over the roof on jams, jugs, and layaways for a fabulous 5.11d crux on perfect stone. The climbing doesn't end yet! A slightly spooky traverse to more jugs leads to the finishing 50 feet of face climbing on good edges. Three stars by any measure for the great moves, great stone, continuity, and the chance to grab a 140 feet sport pitch.

Hey Good Lookin'

Foxy is the next route to the right of

Recovery

.  Move up a slab into steep blocky terrain. The guide gives this a "PG-13" rating because of a runout before the first bolt, but the climbing there is significantly easier than the rest of the route.  Helped some guys get their rope down one day by climbing this pitch.  It's fun, but pretty easy for the rating.  I would say it's more like 5.10b or c, but you tell me what you think.

Foxy

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found

here

.

Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout)

Hot Stuff may be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s. It follows a line left of the great roof system and is belayed  off a large, flat ledge.

Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk.

Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward, little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 feet. Hang a bit right, and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal.

Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.

Hot Stuff

Porn Queen sits directly above

Reefer Madness

and is best done as an extension to that route (14 bolts). Follow seven bolts up overhanging rock above the anchor on

Reefer Madness

with a few moves in the 5.11 range then move right and up to the anchors after the climbing eases off a bit. The anchor is about 95 feet off the ground, and it is a pain to clean the route on rappel or while lowering. Watch out for some stinky bird poop above the

Reefer Madness

anchor.

Porn Queen

This has lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. It is very well-protected but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follow the "black and tan" stain up the slab.

Black and Tan

If you like thin face climbing that utilizes balance and sequence, then this route is for you. It begins with the same first bolt as

Reefer Madness

and continues left through some tricky 5.11 climbing. Rest at the ledge and continue through the final 3 bolt crux. The beta is incredibly fun to work out and the climb has good clipping stances. The guidebook says 5.12d/13a, but Nate Weitzel and I felt that it wasn't quite that difficult.

Ten-Digit Dialing

Interstellar Overdrive, commonly called just Interstellar, ascends the sheer sweep of stone on the far right of the cliff. A sustained 13a leads to an OK shake and fairly stout V8 boulder problem. The crux, which is all about reach, involves some thin edges (a little glue), and is followed by another 10 feet of hard climbing to the chains. Certainly one of the most classic hard routes on the Front Range, with easy access and morning shade. Now I just have to redpoint it....

Interstellar Overdrive

Your mission, Mr. Phelps, should you choose to accept it, is to ascend the sweeping gray, green, and orange face to the left of

Interstellar Overdrive

. This mission is wrought with dead-ends, danger, and misery for the few who dare attempt the Impossible. Your entry exam shall be slab climbing that is slightly overhung which will immediately deposit you into the crux; survive the mental and physical torture of the next two bolts and you might just breathe the rarefied air of the upper headwall. Don't breathe too easy though, as traps and tricks are waiting to spit you back to the realm of mere mortals. Should you fail, we will disavow any knowledge of you and your mission.

Mission Impossible

This is an excellent route with a brief cruxy section up to and over a small roof. Both below and above this are fun slabby moves. The rating is a little soft (

Refer Madness

on this same wall is decidedly more difficult, for example), so if you're looking to claim your first 11 lead, this is a fun route for it!

Vixen

Woop-Woo!! Another really fantastic Clear Creek route. The first eight bolts are smooth slab climbing, with some high 10 / low 11 moves. Then get ready for the real fun - step out of the comfy little corner, and make some balancey moves through two bolts to earn the nice view at the anchors. A highly recommended route.

Recovery

EDIT: actually is named Roadrunner and the left crack is

.30-06

.

This is the right of the two distinctive cracks on the right side of the wall, the left one being "

.30-06

" (aka "

thirty aught six

"). Despite the not-so-classic parts (bird poo, loose rocks, lichen) it is a super-sexy Clear Creek classic and not to be missed. From the ledge system, start under a fixed head and work up a funky crack to the cave. If you have a big reach, you can place a good finger sized piece before committing to the moves at the fixed head. There are several questionable blocks and the gear is sometimes difficult to place, but can be solid with tricky cams, offset cams or tricky bomber nuts. One could belay at the cave, or with careful rope management one can continue up the roof section. Traverse the huge roof with bomber pro and back clean if doing it as one pitch. Clip the bolt to keep your rope out of the crack and climb the beautiful overhanging crack to the nice summit ledge. There are two old cold-shuts and one new bolt w/chain. In my opinion the crux is not the OW, but the thin crack just above.

Descent: Loose walk-off or rap with two ropes (it is possible to rap with a 60m and swing into the ledge, a 70m provides much more comfort, ! KNOT YOUR ENDS ! ).

Roadrunner

Goin' The Distance takes

Slinky

past the first large overhang on slopers and small crimps, then intersects

Y2K

after the crux of

Y2K

.  The anchors of

Slinky

were moved down slightly so as not to interfere with the crux of Goin' The Distance.  A few dangerous loose blocks were cleaned off above the overhang, hopefully making the route safer.

Goin' The Distance

As the 1990 movie suggests, shes a little dirty and rough around the edges, but she will clean up to be a keeper.  Begin at the base of a small, black roof adjacent to the start of

Hey Good Lookin

.  Trend left towards a small, right-facing dihedral and continue up past a series of slabby ledge systems to a broad ledge below a second right-facing dihedral.  Surmount the dihedral and launch into the pumpy, jug haul trending left out the roof.  Above the roof, catch your breath and cut right to the new anchors.

Pretty Woman

The left half of the Wall of the '90s is capped by a large roof system, pierced by several hard, gymnastic routes. 7 Minute Abs is the latest and hardest of the collection, following the swath of molasses stone with lime lichen highlights ten feet left of

Harlot

. The climbing is particularly thuggy, with core-cramping tension moves to reach the lip of the body-length roof, and a number of burly dynos to clear it.

Begin up the

Hey Good Lookin'

slab, passing its first small roof, but then head straight up into the large roof where that line breaks left. Work out the body-length ceiling along an orange flake to the crux lip turn. Above, the climbing remains pumpy but excellent, following good incuts up the slightly overhanging panel. Negotiate a final mini-roof crank to gain jugs at the anchor.

7-Minute Abs

P1 of Centerfold takes the dihedral corner of the huge right-facing dihedral in the middle of the Wall of The '90s. The seldom done second pitch runs up the overhangs directly above. P1 is a great warm-up for the harder climbs on the wall, works well as as a top rope, and provides access to the top of

Ten-Digit Dialing

. For more details per

Doug Haller

: scramble up blocks and make a long reach right to clip the first bolt.  Pull and muscle you way into the corner, stemming and hand jamming your way to the last challenging moves required to gain the slab/ledge and bolted anchor.

P2 is a lot more fun than it looks, and it is unfortunate that it sees such little traffic. The climbing on P1 is generally obvious until the last move, just keep the stems going and it will pose little difficulty.

P1 also makes a nice entry to leading 5.10 being a safely bolted climb with lots of good climbing features and a crux right at the end. Stems, jams, and edges abound to make the climbing overall really enjoyable.

Centerfold

The crimp traverse towards the top of this route is some of the most fun climbing on the wall! Work your way up some 12- slab moves to get to a ledge rest below the roof. Traverse up and left under the roof before cutting right on a seam where you crimp your way past a crux, and mantel over to the top.

Creekside Prophet

Link-Up

This is a great route for those that have the first part of

Mission Impossible

wired and want a less impossible way to get to the top by avoiding the final crux. Climb the first 8 bolts of

Mission Impossible

, then bust out left for some fun crack climbing on

Roadrunner

to get to the chains.

Mission Plausible

This is the farthest left route on Wall of the '90s.  Start about 30' uphill from the

Hot Stuff

ledge.  This may be one of the best 5.6s in the canyon (if not the only one).  It is surprisingly great and clean stone and all jugs.  It is bolted well for the grade.

Alone Time with my Banana

This route climbs friable edges just to the right of

Reefer Madness

.  The moves are interesting, the crux sequence included, but a bit scary feeling the key holds flex.  In addition certain footholds are very likely to come crumbling off if used.  Recommended finish is to merge with

Reefer Madness

at its last bolt rather than climbing the bolt protected bird shit and bird home crack.  Gave one star for the interesting crux and continuity gained by climbing the top of

Reefer Madness

, just find the solid footholds before cranking through this one.

Stone Free

This is similar to

Hot Stuff

but less sustained. The rock was very dirty when the route was established. Hours have been spent cleaning it, and yet it is still fairly dirty. There is a nice crux between the last bolt and the anchor.

Leftover Stuff

Slinky, slinky, it’s a wonderful toy! Slinky, slinky, fun for a girl and a boy!

This route ends at the anchor for

Y2K

. Climb up the slab to to a bail out anchor before a small overhang. The crux is at the lip of the overhang. Pull over a roof & finish up a right-facing corner.

Addendum: this route has been extended, and the extension name is

Goin' The Distance

.

Slinky

We are a non-profit organization that connects and supports climbers, climbing organizations, land managers, and businesses in the Boulder area, in order to protect and care for the climbing areas we love.

Our hallmark program is the BCC Trail Crew (formerly the Front Range Climbing Stewards), a full-time professional trail work team. We've also replaced thousands of old bolts and anchors, and provided tens of thousands of free wag bags at stations we installed.



Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wall of the '90s